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We
age and our skins are the most visible parts where aging is evident. More
than anywhere, aging shows on the face and it is there that most anti-aging
products focus on. Anti-aging products are based on moisturizers and are
promoted to slow and/or reverse the signs of aging which are chiefly
wrinkles, fine lines, blemishes, discolorations and other environmental
damages to the skin.
Skin aging can present as any of the following: laxity or sagging of the
skin; rhytids or appearance of wrinkles; and photoaging.
Photoaging is due to the damage to the skin from exposure to the sun and can
show as erythema or redness, dyspigmentation or brown discolorations, solar
elastosis or yellowing of the skin, keratoses or abnormal skin growths and
loss of firm skin texture.
The basics of aging is rooted in the breakdown of the skin’s two most
important structural molecules: collagen and elastin. They are both proteins
and are responsible for the skin’s structural integrity. Collagen is fibrous
and provides the skin’s tensile strength and thus the firmness. When it
starts to break down, the skin sags and wrinkles begin to appear. Elastin,
on the other hand, is responsible for the skin’s flexibility.
It is elastin that lets the skin return to its normal shape and original
position every time it is stretched and the skin is stretched always either
by our movement or by environmental factors such as cold or hot weather.
These two proteins are so important to determining the appearance of the
skin that every anti-aging product makes strong references to them. However,
it is simply a marketing hokum and bad science to think that anti-aging
products packing collagen and elastin will slow or reverse skin aging.
In truth, these molecules when supplied by skincare products are too big to
be absorbed into the skin. Even if absorbed, supplying a vital molecule for
skin firmness and elasticity from outside does not necessarily translate to
the body utilizing it for the same purpose. The best solution is supplying
the skin with ingredients that can stimulate the natural production of
collagen and elastin.
Therefore, the most effective ingredients in anti-aging products stimulate
cell renewal or protect the skin from further damage.
The commonest effective active agents in such products include retinol,
epidermal growth factor, alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs),
coenzyme Q10, peptides, anti-oxidants and sunscreens.
Retinol or
Vitamin A1 is presented as retinyl palmitate and is one
of only a handful active agents proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Other vitamins included as anti-oxidants are Vitamins E and C. They protect
the skin from damages by mopping up harmful free radicals.
Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) is an extensively studied compound proven to
reduce sagging, fine lines and wrinkles. It is a combination of 53 amino
acids and it stimulates collagen production as well as elastin, guaranteeing
structural strengthening and elasticity of the skin. Also used for its
healing and anti-inflammatory properties on the skin, it won a 1986 Nobel
for its discoverer.
AHAs, also called alpha hyaluronic acids, and beta hydroxyl acids promote
exfoliation of the skin epidermis by dissolving the “glue” holding dead skin
cells together.
By exposing new skin cells, the skin looks younger naturally. These active
agents are naturally occurring on the skin as hyaluronan which is inhibited
by the enzyme hyaluronidase. Certain
anti-aging products include agents that blocks the
actions of this enzyme, therefore, allowing the natural hyaluronan to keep
acting.
Coenzyme Q10 is a special anti-oxidant found in skin cells. It is also
needed to remove unstable molecules such as free radicals which are damaging
to the skin. However, with age, the natural store of the enzyme is depleted,
necessitating replenishment from anti-aging products. Coenzyme Q10 comes in
different formulations. The nano-emulsion formulation is known to penetrate
deeper and provide a better anti-aging action.
Sunscreens are the last essential ingredient of anti-aging products.
They are important to stem further aging of the skin especially photoaging
by protecting it from the harmful effect of ultraviolet solar radiation.
Sunscreens are even more important especially in formulations where
exfoliating agents such as AHAs are present. By removing layers of dead
cells from the skin, the skin is more exposed to harmful UVA rays.
Sunscreens can offer a coat of protection when used with such agents.
About the Author:
Oz Zeldom
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